Wingnut Wings LVG C.VI
- Details
- Published on Mon, 14 Jun 2010
Wingnut Wings 1/32 LVG C.VI
(or, my first proper foray in WW1 modelling)
Monday 14th June, 2010
I received this, my first WNW kit, last year when my good friend and website partner Peter Buckingham brought it back with him from the USA (another story!) and up to press, I actually think I've been too frightened to build it. My usual area area of modelling is WW2 German, so at least this kit fulfils half of that criteria. Now, WW2 planes don't tend to come with any rigging, and I think the thought of sparse cockpits and painting timber effects really put me off.
Last year, as a subscriber to the 'Air Modeller' magazine, I received a timely issue, with an immaculate build of this very kit. I think it just frightened me further, though at the same time inspiring me to at least 'want' to try some of these new techniques. The builder was a jet modeller, so perhaps I could manage this?
For those who haven't read my review of this amazing looking kit, then you really should do. For those who have never seen a WNW in the flesh, then you are in for a treat of gargantuan proportions. Everything about the kit oozes quality, from the packaging to the moulding and decal detail and standards. I think part of me didn't want to break into this kit, just for those reasons, but hey ho!
Now, I've never been one to follow instructions, and this was no different. Actually, the only deviation was to build the engine first. This was an area I really wanted to tackle as I wished to make a few changes to the finished item. Anyone who has seen that 'Air Modeller' article will immediately notice that I am using that as the literal basis for this build, and I make no apology for plagiarising it. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or so I'm told
The LVG kit, despite the instructions showing only the engine construction with the parts containing moulding on push rods DOES contain the same part without the pushrods, enabling you to add your own more realistic attempt. I do applaud WNW for including both versions though. Now, at this point, I realised I needed somepretty fine wire that was needle straight, but could I find any? No. Ever had one of those Eureka moments? Well I had one, and my wife wasn't pleased. I nipped to the attic and cut a few fine fibre optics off our Christmas Tree! I told you she wasn't pleased. These were just about perfect for the job. An hour later, and 12 perfectly measured rods later, the job was 'a good 'un', as we say in these parts.
The engine assembled very quickly and could almost have been made without glue, the fit was so good. Before I could add those pushrods, time to paint. The bottom engine block was painted with Alclad2 White Aluminium, and the cylinders with Gunze Black, which imparts a slight sheen to the proceedings. The colour photos of an actual engine in the manual, shows the cooling fins painted in red. Now whilst this wasn't always standard practice, I just had to do it to break up the lines of those 6 cylinders. This was done using 1mm tape from Cammett, and run along the length of the cylinders, pushing the tape down deep in between them. As the tape was run around the other side, the same thing applied, but I made sure the tape between the cynlinders joined up, creating a set of well masked cooling fins. This was then sprayed in Tamiya Bright Red before a quick flick with XtraColor Satin Varnish to reinstate that sheen I had.
Pushrods added to the engine and all other constructions completed, I then added the ignition cables to the spark plugs with thin lead wire, and installed the ignition cable conduit to carry these back to the engines on-board plug. Painting using a mixture of Vallejo and Gunze, then washes of MIG Dark Wash and Oil, and the engine was complete.
Remember the wood painting phobia I said I had? Well, this time it was back with avengeance as I realised there was a lot of timber to replicate inside that fuselage. I already had the technique in front of me by means of that magazine article, but now I had to get my hands dirty and try this out. As I quite liked the overall look of that finished model, and its colours, I opted to source those very same paints which were LifeColor. Thanks to the wonderful guys at Simple2Trade, these came quickly and I gave the interior its coat of LifeColor 'Sandgrau', sprayed with a 50:50 mix of Tamiya's X20A thinner. I was getting a little tired of 'spattering' with the original water mix, and my friend Peter Buckingham came to the rescue again with this X20A suggestion. I'd better say at this point that all areas sprayed with LifeColor had been given a coat of Alclad2 grey primer first. LifeColour hates bare plastic surfaces, although was a little friendlier with the Tamiya thinners.
Whilst this cured, I painted some of the internals for the cockpit. The control yoke, rudder pedals and other associated hardware was painted in satin black, and the ammunition drums were painted in Alclad2 Steel. The leather straps were painted, and I added the cloth strip around the drim by using a thin strip of Tamiya tape, painted in Tamiya Buff paint.
Onto that seat. I have to say that the Allied pilots must have had a rough deal when it came to seats for their aircraft. We seemed to use wicker and other materials which must have been hard on the arse during flight, but the Germans knew comfort and weren't ashamed to use it. The LVG's seat looks like a sumptuous leather affair and must've been very comfortable. The kits seat comprises of 4 parts, and these were painted initially in rich chocolate brown and given several different coloured highlights and lowlights. I then misted a very thin coat of Tamiya Clear Orange over the whole lot.
Happy with that, I then proceeded to the 'achilles heel' of that wonderful seat; the fuel tank. Yes, that seat was located right on top of it, and it must have been always on their minds that a stray bullet could wreak havoc with their wedding night. The tank was sprayed in Alclad2 Pale Gold which is pretty close to brass, and then I highlighted the detail using Alclad2 Hot Metal Sepia. Yup, that worked! Seat on top of the tank and the fuel filler added, it was then time to progress to that timber detail.
Having had the foresight to purchase some excellent Tamiya paintbrushes from Relish Models, the medium flat brush was the weapon of choice for this. Using the Sandgrau base colour, I darked this with a little LifeColor Dark Brown paint and proceeded to paint the timber grain, using the varying width of the laterally moving brush, to vary the thickness of the grain detail. Working a few knots in there, things were looking good. Four whole hours later, the grain was complete. Some areas were painted in a darker timber, using the same effect. Some knots were now slightly darkened further before using a very heavily thinned Sandgrau to mist a thin coat over the whole lot, unifying it a little better. Now, the genius touch...Tamiya Clear Yellow. Heavily thinned, this was misted over the timber to give it a rich light oak colour. I sprayed slightly more on the internal framing to give it some contrast to the rest of the interior. The areas of darker timber were misted with Tamiya Clear Orange instead.
Recesses and orrifices were given some subtle shadow with Tamiya Smoke and all other internal detail painted. The instrument dials are given as individual decals and they look great. After giving the bezels a coat of Tamiya Silver, I applied a drop of Klear to each face and let dry. The dials were then applied using Mr Micro Setter and they look stunning.
The rear of the fuselage contains a radio set comprising of 2 parts. This was painted using a combination of Gunze RLM02, Alclad2 Copper and Aluminium colours, and finished off with some black detailing and a dark MIG wash.
The seatbelts are supplied as photo-etch and equally look to be quality. My first experience of annealing brass seatbelts was a total disaster. I ended up with broken and shrivelled brass, so this time I took things far more gently with a candle. Wahey! After removing from the fret, they were perfectly pliable. The belts were draped over the seats and gently removed so as not to damage the paintwork. The belts were now sprayed with Tamiya Buff before the silver buckles and clasps were painted. Finally, a little darker brown was used to paint the stitching onto them. A small drop of Filla-Glu CA was used to attach these to the seats, and then we are onto main event; assembling the cockpit proper.
After scraping the paint from the tiny face joints on the interior parts, the cockpit 'tub' was assembled. What a joy! This kit is so perfectly engineered that this area is a total 'no brainer'.
At the moment, I'm busying myself with painting the engine bearers in that same timber effect finish, but I have to leave this build for 2 days as my house is being decorated, and my work space is hidden under a clutter of household crap!
(or, my first proper foray in WW1 modelling)
Monday 14th June, 2010
I received this, my first WNW kit, last year when my good friend and website partner Peter Buckingham brought it back with him from the USA (another story!) and up to press, I actually think I've been too frightened to build it. My usual area area of modelling is WW2 German, so at least this kit fulfils half of that criteria. Now, WW2 planes don't tend to come with any rigging, and I think the thought of sparse cockpits and painting timber effects really put me off.
Last year, as a subscriber to the 'Air Modeller' magazine, I received a timely issue, with an immaculate build of this very kit. I think it just frightened me further, though at the same time inspiring me to at least 'want' to try some of these new techniques. The builder was a jet modeller, so perhaps I could manage this?
For those who haven't read my review of this amazing looking kit, then you really should do. For those who have never seen a WNW in the flesh, then you are in for a treat of gargantuan proportions. Everything about the kit oozes quality, from the packaging to the moulding and decal detail and standards. I think part of me didn't want to break into this kit, just for those reasons, but hey ho!
Now, I've never been one to follow instructions, and this was no different. Actually, the only deviation was to build the engine first. This was an area I really wanted to tackle as I wished to make a few changes to the finished item. Anyone who has seen that 'Air Modeller' article will immediately notice that I am using that as the literal basis for this build, and I make no apology for plagiarising it. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, or so I'm told
The LVG kit, despite the instructions showing only the engine construction with the parts containing moulding on push rods DOES contain the same part without the pushrods, enabling you to add your own more realistic attempt. I do applaud WNW for including both versions though. Now, at this point, I realised I needed somepretty fine wire that was needle straight, but could I find any? No. Ever had one of those Eureka moments? Well I had one, and my wife wasn't pleased. I nipped to the attic and cut a few fine fibre optics off our Christmas Tree! I told you she wasn't pleased. These were just about perfect for the job. An hour later, and 12 perfectly measured rods later, the job was 'a good 'un', as we say in these parts.
The engine assembled very quickly and could almost have been made without glue, the fit was so good. Before I could add those pushrods, time to paint. The bottom engine block was painted with Alclad2 White Aluminium, and the cylinders with Gunze Black, which imparts a slight sheen to the proceedings. The colour photos of an actual engine in the manual, shows the cooling fins painted in red. Now whilst this wasn't always standard practice, I just had to do it to break up the lines of those 6 cylinders. This was done using 1mm tape from Cammett, and run along the length of the cylinders, pushing the tape down deep in between them. As the tape was run around the other side, the same thing applied, but I made sure the tape between the cynlinders joined up, creating a set of well masked cooling fins. This was then sprayed in Tamiya Bright Red before a quick flick with XtraColor Satin Varnish to reinstate that sheen I had.
Pushrods added to the engine and all other constructions completed, I then added the ignition cables to the spark plugs with thin lead wire, and installed the ignition cable conduit to carry these back to the engines on-board plug. Painting using a mixture of Vallejo and Gunze, then washes of MIG Dark Wash and Oil, and the engine was complete.
Remember the wood painting phobia I said I had? Well, this time it was back with avengeance as I realised there was a lot of timber to replicate inside that fuselage. I already had the technique in front of me by means of that magazine article, but now I had to get my hands dirty and try this out. As I quite liked the overall look of that finished model, and its colours, I opted to source those very same paints which were LifeColor. Thanks to the wonderful guys at Simple2Trade, these came quickly and I gave the interior its coat of LifeColor 'Sandgrau', sprayed with a 50:50 mix of Tamiya's X20A thinner. I was getting a little tired of 'spattering' with the original water mix, and my friend Peter Buckingham came to the rescue again with this X20A suggestion. I'd better say at this point that all areas sprayed with LifeColor had been given a coat of Alclad2 grey primer first. LifeColour hates bare plastic surfaces, although was a little friendlier with the Tamiya thinners.
Whilst this cured, I painted some of the internals for the cockpit. The control yoke, rudder pedals and other associated hardware was painted in satin black, and the ammunition drums were painted in Alclad2 Steel. The leather straps were painted, and I added the cloth strip around the drim by using a thin strip of Tamiya tape, painted in Tamiya Buff paint.
Onto that seat. I have to say that the Allied pilots must have had a rough deal when it came to seats for their aircraft. We seemed to use wicker and other materials which must have been hard on the arse during flight, but the Germans knew comfort and weren't ashamed to use it. The LVG's seat looks like a sumptuous leather affair and must've been very comfortable. The kits seat comprises of 4 parts, and these were painted initially in rich chocolate brown and given several different coloured highlights and lowlights. I then misted a very thin coat of Tamiya Clear Orange over the whole lot.
Happy with that, I then proceeded to the 'achilles heel' of that wonderful seat; the fuel tank. Yes, that seat was located right on top of it, and it must have been always on their minds that a stray bullet could wreak havoc with their wedding night. The tank was sprayed in Alclad2 Pale Gold which is pretty close to brass, and then I highlighted the detail using Alclad2 Hot Metal Sepia. Yup, that worked! Seat on top of the tank and the fuel filler added, it was then time to progress to that timber detail.
Having had the foresight to purchase some excellent Tamiya paintbrushes from Relish Models, the medium flat brush was the weapon of choice for this. Using the Sandgrau base colour, I darked this with a little LifeColor Dark Brown paint and proceeded to paint the timber grain, using the varying width of the laterally moving brush, to vary the thickness of the grain detail. Working a few knots in there, things were looking good. Four whole hours later, the grain was complete. Some areas were painted in a darker timber, using the same effect. Some knots were now slightly darkened further before using a very heavily thinned Sandgrau to mist a thin coat over the whole lot, unifying it a little better. Now, the genius touch...Tamiya Clear Yellow. Heavily thinned, this was misted over the timber to give it a rich light oak colour. I sprayed slightly more on the internal framing to give it some contrast to the rest of the interior. The areas of darker timber were misted with Tamiya Clear Orange instead.
Recesses and orrifices were given some subtle shadow with Tamiya Smoke and all other internal detail painted. The instrument dials are given as individual decals and they look great. After giving the bezels a coat of Tamiya Silver, I applied a drop of Klear to each face and let dry. The dials were then applied using Mr Micro Setter and they look stunning.
The rear of the fuselage contains a radio set comprising of 2 parts. This was painted using a combination of Gunze RLM02, Alclad2 Copper and Aluminium colours, and finished off with some black detailing and a dark MIG wash.
The seatbelts are supplied as photo-etch and equally look to be quality. My first experience of annealing brass seatbelts was a total disaster. I ended up with broken and shrivelled brass, so this time I took things far more gently with a candle. Wahey! After removing from the fret, they were perfectly pliable. The belts were draped over the seats and gently removed so as not to damage the paintwork. The belts were now sprayed with Tamiya Buff before the silver buckles and clasps were painted. Finally, a little darker brown was used to paint the stitching onto them. A small drop of Filla-Glu CA was used to attach these to the seats, and then we are onto main event; assembling the cockpit proper.
After scraping the paint from the tiny face joints on the interior parts, the cockpit 'tub' was assembled. What a joy! This kit is so perfectly engineered that this area is a total 'no brainer'.
At the moment, I'm busying myself with painting the engine bearers in that same timber effect finish, but I have to leave this build for 2 days as my house is being decorated, and my work space is hidden under a clutter of household crap!
Catch you soon 
Wednesday 16th June, 2010
Bear with me. My Iwata compressor has packed in and a spare part is on order. As soon as I get this, and my workspace back, more pics will follow.
